Original click on the starboard food table on the right
After a rain, time turned to the summer page again. The summer heat attacks people, and the rainstorm always comes unannounced. In this weather, drinking water does not quench your thirst at all. What I want to drink is still a bowl of refreshing and cooling that strengthens the spleen and removes dampness, moistens the lungs and dries.
Qingbuliang is found all over Lingnan, and Lingnan people also like to drink Qingbuliang. In ancient times, the south was humid and miasma, especially in summer. At the same time, people’s yang is all leaked out, and their heart is damaged, so Lingnan people use a bowl of Qingbuliang to replenish qi and protect their hearts.
Qing Bu Liang is really "Dongpo’s favorite"?
In fact, there is no evidence to test the origin of Qing Bu Liang, and there is no record of Qing Bu Liang in ancient books. There are only two legends circulating among the people. First, when Zhao Tuo led Qin Shihuang to order the pacify of Lingnan, the army became ill, and the army medics made a medicated diet, which can recover after drinking. Zhao Tuo praised this kind of medicated diet: "The food can clear the heat and replenish the vitality, which can be called clearing and cooling."
China’s medicated diet culture has a long history, which can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor. Although this story can’t be found in ancient books, it doesn’t rule out the possibility.
Su Shi
Another folklore about Qingbuliang is about Qingbuliang in Hainan. There is an allusion written on the walls of many Qingbuliang shops in Hainan: "In 1097, when Su Dongpo, a famous writer of the Northern Song Dynasty, was exiled to Hainan, he tasted the coconut milk made by the local people and was very impressed. He praised it on the spot: nectar was picked on the coconut tree and a bowl of white jade was brought. Since then, Su Dongpo must eat a bowl every day during his stay in Joan, which is Dongpo’s favorite! "
However, the origin of this allusion is unknown, and in the Complete Works of Su Dongpo and the research literature on Su Shi, there is no clearing and cooling in all the Lingnan scenery mentioned by Su Shi.
At the same time, before the Coconut Tree Group solved the two major problems of "oil-water separation" and "protein coagulation" in 1988, the production of "coconut juice (milk)" relied on essence blending. That is to say, in the Song Dynasty without edible essence, it is impossible to have "coconut milk".
Therefore, the legend that Su Shi ate coconut milk to make it cool, like the legend that Ganlong ate every snack bar in the south of the Yangtze River, is probably just a story fabricated by merchants for publicity.
But in the past few days, I have different views on this "fabrication". Danzhou, that is, Hainan, is the last stop of Su Shi’s relegation, and also the poorest and uncivilized.
In Hainan, Su Shi "has no meat to eat, no medicine for illness, no room to live in, no friends to go out, no charcoal in winter and no cold spring in summer". However, Su Shi, who said "who wrote geography and geography in other years, Hainan is my hometown forever" and "I am a native of Hainan and live in Xishu Prefecture", is undoubtedly really in love with Hainan.
Su Shi has trained a large number of talents for Hainan. At the same time, Hainan people, who were originally "neither wheat nor millet" and avoided believing in medicine, also began to pay attention to farming and medicine under the leadership of Su Shi.
The people of Hainan really love Su Shi, and they help him build a house and provide him with food and clothing when they are not rich. There is no distinction between the government and the people, and they are completely equal friends.
So many officials have been demoted to Hainan, but now only Su Shi has left Dongpo Village, Dongpo Well, Dongpo Field, Dongpo Road, Dongpo Bridge and Dongpo Hat in Hainan, and even the language has "Dongpo Dialect".
Therefore, behind the "fabrication" is actually the memory of Su Shi by Hainan people, so when they "climb high" their products, they thought of Su Shi at the first time. Or, Hainan people really think, "If only Su Shi, who has been suffering all his life, could have a bowl of refreshing food every day."
Hainan, Guangdong and Guangxi, the top three compete for hegemony.
There are two main schools of clearing and cooling: the dessert school in Qionggui and the soup school in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao. The two factions developed from different local customs, each with its own fans.
Hainan absorbs the specialties of Guangdong and Guangxi, and integrates its own innovation, and now it has become one of the must-eat snacks in the local area, which is deeply loved by tourists from all over the world. Mung beans, coix seed, peanuts and other ingredients not only retain the health-care effect, but also add coconut milk rich in local resources and macaroni drifting from other places, which is a bit unexpected at first sight, but immediately turns into iron powder after tasting it.
I remember going to Sanya on a business trip a few years ago. Before I left, I asked my fellow friends what they wanted to eat for the last meal. My friends said, "All right, but after eating, I have to drink a bowl to cool down."
The practice of clearing and cooling in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao is more nourishing, and it is cooked into old fire soup with ingredients such as yam, lotus seeds, red dates and barley. The form is eclectic, depending on how you want to make up or local habits. The common practice will be accompanied by Polygonatum odoratum, Radix Adenophorae and Coicis Semen, focusing on invigorating qi and moistening lung.
Laomeicheng people are generally equipped with medlar and tremella which can regulate cardiovascular function. The biggest difference from the "dessert pie" is that the Qingbuliang in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao has not only sweet syrup, but also a Qingbuliang soup with various meat ingredients and a salty mouth. Pork for relieving cough and chicken for tonifying kidney are all excellent.
In Guangxi, the hometown of fruits created by monsoon climate chose to add fruits to Qingbuliang. Diners choose a variety of seasonal fruits according to their own preferences, and then add Xiancao and white bean jelly to make desserts similar to fruit mixed ice.
White bean jelly is a characteristic of refreshing and refreshing in Guangxi, which is rarely seen in other places.
Listening to the name, some people will think it is the white bean jelly in northern Sichuan, but it seems that others will think it is the ice powder eaten by Sichuan and Chongqing. Actually, it’s all different. White bean jelly is made of konjac flour, which is crystal clear and a little more elastic than ice powder.
Guangxi people will call Xiancao black bean jelly. This black and white bean jelly is matched with iced fruit, resulting in a constantly fluctuating taste level.
This is what Lingnan people love. It can be the "taste of childhood" in a tin lunch box, the "concern" brought by my mother after a hard day’s home, or the "small luxury" of sharing a street stall with my friends after school. It is a small supporting role that often exists in the beautiful memories of Lingnan people.
Make a bowl at home in midsummer.
Finally, I will offer you the practices of clearing and replenishing cool in Guangdong and Hainan. If you don’t want to read the text, you can click on the video to learn.
Guangdong style refreshing and cooling (5 persons):
Ingredients: 15g of tremella, 25g of coix seed, 10g of lily, 10g of Polygonatum odoratum, 10g of adenophora, 15g of yam, 20g of lotus seeds, 8 red dates, 5g of medlar and 120g of yellow rock sugar.
Practice: White fungus is soaked in warm water and then cut into small pieces. Stir-fry Coicis Semen with low fire for 2-3 minutes, then add Tremella, Lily, Polygonatum odoratum, Radix Adenophorae, Rhizoma Dioscoreae, Lotus seeds and 2000g purified water, and simmer for 30 minutes. Add red dates, medlar and yellow rock sugar, and stew for 10 minutes.
Hainan Qingbuliang (10 persons):
Ingredients: 300 grams of rock sugar, 400 ml of coconut milk, 200 grams of red beans, 200 grams of mung beans, 200 grams of coix seed, 200 grams of paederia scandens, 200 grams of white gourd coix seed, 200 grams of macaroni, 200 grams of turtle paste, appropriate amount of cooked peanuts, appropriate amount of raisins, appropriate amount of sweet corn and appropriate amount of watermelon.
Practice: add 1200 grams of pure water to rock sugar and boil it into sugar water, then take it out and let it cool. Take three empty bowls filled with water, put in red beans, mung beans and coix seed respectively, and steam for 1 hour. Put the chicken excrement into the water, cook for 5 minutes on medium heat, and remove the supercooled water. Put wax gourd and barley in water, cook for 5 minutes on medium heat, and remove the cold water. Soak macaroni in water for 10 minutes in advance, put it in water, cook for 10 minutes on medium heat, and remove the supercooled water. Combine all the ingredients according to your preference, and serve.
References:
1. Lu Honghong. "Study on Su Shi’s Lingnan Landscape Poetry"
2. Claire Kuo. "Summer cooling materials are selected according to physical fitness."
3. Liu Na. "When you arrive in Hainan Island, you should taste" Qingbuliang ""
4. "Summer Snacks Clear and Cool Special Food is Famous"
5. Huang Xu. "Clear and Cool in the South of the Sea"
6. Kui Ming. "Good Dietotherapy" Qingbuliang "
7. Gao Xianfeng. Study on Sugar Water in Guangdong.
8. Yang Zaixi. After living in exile for three years, I caught a glimpse-what did Su Shi leave for Hainan? 》
9. Mutual Bright Technology. "By selling coconut juice, he became a state-secret state banquet drink, and earned 4 billion yuan a year for enterprises that will go bankrupt."
10. Su Shi. Complete Works of Su Dongpo
11. Hui Hong. "Cold Zhai Night Talk"
Wen | taro
Figure | Siyu & Some pictures are from the Internet.
Original title: "On a hot summer day, this bowl of life-saving sugar water relieves summer heat and nourishes qi! 》
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